The best things come in Smalle packages

It's a sure sign that spring has sprung when the tiny waterside deck of Cafe 't Smalle is groaning with customers. The sunshine might be weak and watery, the wind a little biting, but it's warm enough to brave an outside table, especially for those swathed in scarves.

Cafe 't Smalle is a Jordaan establishment with a long and distinguished history. In 1780, a certain Peter Hoppe established a liqueur and jenever distillery on the site of the current cafe. This grew in size and reputation to the extent that new, larger premises in Schiedam were required. Hoppe Jenever is still going strong today, with international reach.

The current cafe was opened in 1978 and, aside from its idyllic canal-side location, much of its charm derives from the original features that have been retained, in particular the stained glass windows and vertiginous spiral staircase. The stacks of wooden barrels lining the walls and the authentic brass bar taps just add to the sense of antiquity.

But still, for me, the best seats in the house are out on the deck, where you can listen to the gentle slap-slap of ripples against the wood or bursts of tunes from the buskers who wander past. Then there's the fun of seeing who will arrive by boat - and how. Kayak, dinghy, military craft, salon boat, skiff ... I've seen them all.